Bohol adventure: Seeing the wonders of my own country
I consider myself fortunate to have been able to travel to several Asian destinations with loved ones long before traveling became mainstream for a lot of Filipinos. I say mainstream because these days, going on vacations—whether by yourself, with friends, or family—usually means going to Disneyland in Hong Kong, Sentosa island in Singapore, or the Elephant Nature Park in Thailand.
More and more Filipinos, however, are getting their wanderlust satiated by just traveling to any of the over 7,000 islands that make up their beloved Philippines. Having worked away from home for a number of years, I couldn’t help but feel envious whenever I see my cousins and friends post photos that paint a thousand words about their most recent voyages to Palawan, Davao, Cebu, Cagayan de Oro, or Mountain Province. You name the province or island and chances are, they’ve been there.
“I, too, will see the wonders of my own country someday,” I told myself.
And it dawned on me that I could actually do it for my 2011 vacation if I worked on making it happen in advance! The idea got me so excited that my significant other and I brainstormed on our destination choice. Bohol topped our list because neither of us had been there. And given that I’ve heard great things about this province in the Visayas, I was able to convince him that this was going to be it.
It was right after the Fourth of July festivities when I packed my bags and boarded my flight to Manila. Three days after, I met with him and the next day, we were bound for Bohol. It was my first time at the Terminal 3 of Ninoy Aquino International Airport in Pasay and it was packed with travelers, local and foreign alike, who were raring to go to their destination and be astonished by its natural beauty.
We boarded a Cebu Pacific flight, which, much to our dismay, no longer had the dancing flight attendant gimmick. Our excitement, nonetheless, didn’t wane as we sat comfortably in our seats. Less than two hours later, our flight landed in Bohol’s main airport in Tagbilaran City.
The tenth largest island in the Philippines, Bohol attracts scores of tourists all year round and is known as the land of Chocolate Hills. Its provincial capital, Tagbilaran City, possesses the usual hullabaloo inherent in a city: heavy traffic, crowded malls, and tons of dining choices.
Passengers who disembarked the flight were greeted by hotel staff and tour agents holding placards with passenger names, eager to welcome their respective customers with Boholano warmth and hospitality. We easily spotted ours, the male Vesta Pension House staffer clutching a sign that said “Clarissa David & Co.,” who gladly took our heavy luggage and put them in the back of a van.
We were so thrilled to be in Bohol that instead of unpacking our stuff, we got out of Vesta right away and rode a tricycle (my SO’s first time; good thing he fit inside) to scout for a good place to eat. We were in the mood for grilled food so we asked the amiable receptionist where to go. She suggested the restaurants along the pier and off we went there.
However, we saw these carenderia stalls—or turo-turo as we call it—on the other side of the road. Good thing we decided to check it out because it was street food heaven: grilled isaw (chicken intestines), chicken feet, baticolon (chicken gizzards), chicken neck and quarters. Seeing my companion, all the tindera were trying to lure us to dine at their stall. We settled with one affable-looking ate who did not disappoint us with our well-done isaw and chicken leg and an ice-cold 1L bottle of Red Horse: our first meal in Bohol.
After that satisfying meal, we wandered aimlessly, realizing more and more that a lot of places we need like restaurants and malls are accessible on foot.
Countryside tour
The next day, we woke up early to avail of our free breakfast at Vesta in preparation for a long, touristy day: we were scheduled to have our countryside tour. Our tour guide and driver, Edward, showed up with an SUV to take us around the famous sites in Bohol. Our first stop was the site of the Blood Compact between Datu Sikatuna and Miguel Lopez de Legaspi. It was where I learned how knowledgeable Edward was, not just about the story of the two historical figures but also how experienced he was in taking photos of his clients. “I’ve had previous customers who are good photographers and they taught me how to take photos,” he revealed.
We went to Baclayon Church, one of the oldest in the Philippines, and the Man-Made Forest, where rows of uniformed mahogany trees line up on either side of the road between the towns of Loboc and Bilar. Our next stop was the lookout of the renowned Chocolate Hills, thousands of cone-shaped hills caused by an unusual geographic formation. According to Edward, legend has it that the hills were actually teardrops of a giant who was not able to find the love of his life. It was at the lookout where we chanced upon our friends Macoi and Rob who were in Bohol for a day tour before heading back to Cebu.
Edward then took us to the Ship Haus, a house shaped like a huge water vessel built by Capt. Gaudencio Tiongco Dumapias from earnings as a master mariner. According to some of the staff, the Ship Haus was “taken” by the government to be used as another tourist attraction for Bohol since it draws a lot of visitors regularly.
We stopped by the Hanging Bridge, a bridge made of bamboo that creaked every time people cross it, before we headed out to the Loboc River Cruise to have our lunch. It was a simple buffet shared by mostly foreigners while listening to a local guy croon old hits.
After the lunch cruise, we got an up close look at the famous tarsiers; they looked so fragile that it made me a little nervous to hold them. I was amazed at how they could turn their heads 180 degrees—like a scene straight out of The Exorcist.
On our way to the next stop, my SO was astounded to see one habal-habal (motorcycle) with six passengers—two adults and four youngsters, including the driver. He said he and his friends always complain about not being able to fit everyone in a truck while in the Philippines, they can do wonders with a motorcycle. Laughing, I replied, “Only in the Philippines.” He took several photos, which he showed his friends when he went back to California.
Panglao visit
Our Bohol trip wouldn’t have been complete without going to see Panglao Island, which was only a few kilometers southwest of Bohol and is connected to the city by a causeway.
I was quite disappointed with Alona Beach, the island’s most popular beach, as I found it too commercialized for my taste. Motorboats used for island hopping crowded the beach waters, which was home to lots of sea grass as well. I felt like I was a child who was told that Santa Claus wasn’t real.
While the main beach was a total letdown, I was taken by the slow, easygoing lifestyle on Panglao and the friendliness of its people. We stayed at Oasis Resort, which lived up to its name with its rows of lovely nipa hut accommodations, palm trees, and a private swimming pool. The gracious staff took good care of us, from breakfast to happy hour. In fact, it was Pangs, the security guard, who rented us his brand new Honda motorbike so we could tour the island.
The bike ride was invigorating for someone like me who doesn’t live on the edge. Along the way, my driver gained lots of monikers from the locals. They would yell, “Hey, Joe!” or “Hello, Daddy!” much to his delight. One time, a young boy called out to him and shouted, “Give me money!” Our most favorite remark was from a boy who strutted, like a little kid trying to be cool in the company of adults. He walked up to us and greeted my driver nonchalantly while we were walking to our bike, “Hey man!” It was hilarious.
Our bike rides got us cruising around the island before reaching Hinagdanan Cave, a limestone cave famous for its stalactites. The water was ice cold and deep yet the most unforgettable thing for me during the cave visit was the tour guide who, while welcoming tourists inside the cave, would warn them, “Watch your head! Watch your head! Have mercy to the stone!”
We also rode to the Bohol Bee Farm, owned and managed by a husband-and-wife tandem, where we tasted and bought pesto and honey spreads. They also take pride in their restaurant where we got to eat flowers—yes, flowers—in our salad. “They don’t just give color to the salad. They’re actually edible,” said Bong, the farm guide. The salad was, indeed, pleasing to the palate.
A trip to Panglao also calls for an island hopping tour. Upon our arrival in Panglao, we were approached by Jane, a petite and pregnant lady who had a very sweet aura that we couldn’t say no to her. We set the date and time; we left Panglao at 5:45am to start the tour. Our quiet boat captain and guide took us dolphin watching between Panglao and Balicasag islands. For someone who doesn’t know how to swim and has not seen marine life beyond six feet from the shore, it was an incredible sight. Schools of dolphins surrounded numerous boats early in the morning and gave its passengers a wonderful show.
Balicasag Island was a far better place to swim in. We had a fantastic time in the waters, after which we had our breakfast of coffee, grilled fresh fish, and ripe mango. It was splendid. We then proceeded to Virgin Island, which wasn’t so virgin at all because of all the trash; some were left behind visitors, while others drifted in from some far-off places.
Danao adventure
We finished our Bohol trip with a three-hour trip to Danao, a municipality in the northern part of Bohol, for the adventure of a lifetime. My best friend Mheng recommended that I take my guest to the Danao Adventure Park, which is becoming popular as an eco-adventure site in Bohol.
Once we arrived there, thanks to our tour guide/driver Elmer, we were greeted by the staff who at once asked me if I wanted to do the Plunge, the canyon swing attraction that involves 70 meters of freefall. I researched about it before our vacation and I must say, it’s not for the faint of heart. It’s certainly not for me.
But we were already there, not to mention the fact that I felt challenged when the staff told me that their youngest Plunge taker was a 7-year-old boy. We decided to do the zipline first, since I’ve been wanting to do it after seeing it in the news, and also to sort of prepare for The Plunge. We went together the first time then we went solo going back. It was scary, but I managed to survive.
The Plunge, on the other hand, was totally different. While in the zipline, I could hear shrieks from people doing or watching the Plunge. “You can do it,” Elmer kept telling me, although it was of little help. They put the gear on me, and the male staff asked me if I wanted to do it right side up or upside down.
Before I knew it, I could hear the guy do the countdown: “tres… dos… uno… bombs away!” It was the longest and scariest two to three seconds of my life. But I’m proud that I did it as I received a certificate that basically says I survived it (So far, nobody has gotten into an accident doing it).
Bohol, check. Now I can’t wait for my next vacation.