KITCHEN MAGIC

CHICKEN PONTALBA

By DAVID SPITZER
Special to the Saipan Tribune

Makes two hearty servings or four smaller servings

The name Pontalba denotes richness, as the dish is named for Barones Micaela Almonester de Pontalba, a wealthy Parisian who in 1850 built the opulent Pontalba buildings that still flank Jackson Square in the historic French Quarter. Considered the oldest apartments in the country, the buildings continue to house elegant residences upstairs and fine retail shops downstairs.

One 2 3/4 to 3-pound chicken, rinsed and patted dry
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon plus 1/8 teaspoon ground white pepper
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 cup small-diced boiled ham
8 ounces fresh white button mushrooms, stems removed, wiped clean, and thinly sliced
1/4 cup chopped green onions (green parts only)
1 cup boiled chopped Potatoes
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
1 recipe Béarnaise sauce (recipe follows)

Preheat oven to 400°F. Cut the chicken into 6 pieces: two breasts, two thighs, and two legs, and remove the bones from the breasts. Season the chicken pieces on both sides with 1/2 teaspoon of the salt and 1/4 teaspoon of the pepper.

Heat the oil in a large ovenproof skillet or sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the chicken pieces and cook until golden brown, 4 minutes on the first side and 3 minutes on the second side. Transfer the pan to the oven and roast until chicken is cooked through, 18 to 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, melt the butter in a large skillet or sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the ham, mushrooms, green onions, and the remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1/8 teaspoon pepper and cook, stirring, until the mushrooms give off their liquid and start to turn golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the wine and bring to boil, stirring to deglaze the bottom of the pan. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer until the mixture is thickened, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the potatoes and parsley, tossing gently to mix, and cook until the potatoes are warmed through, 1 to 2 minutes.

To serve, place equal amounts of the vegetable mixture in the center of four large plates and top with the chicken. Spoon the Béarnaise sauce over the chicken and serve immediately.

Béarnaise Sauce

Makes about 1 1/2 cups

1/4 cup white wine vinegar
1/4 cup dry Vermouth
2 tablespoons chopped shallots
4 sprigs fresh tarragon, plus 1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon
2 teaspoons black peppercorns
2 large egg yolks
3/4 cup melted clarified butter (recipe follows) or 12 tablespoons (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, melted
1 tablespoon tepid water, as needed
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon hot sauce or cayenne, or to taste

Combine the vinegar, Vermouth, shallots, tarragon sprigs, and peppercorns in a small saucepan, bring to a boil, and cook until reduced to 4 teaspoons. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve and let cool.

Whisk the egg yolks with the wine mixture in the top of a double boiler (or in a medium bowl set over a pot of barely simmering water) until thick and pale yellow. Remove the double boiler (or bowl and saucepan) from the heat and gradually add the butter, whisking constantly to thicken. Add enough tepid water to thin to pouring consistency. Add the 1 tablespoon chopped tarragon, salt, and hot sauce whisk well to blend. Adjust the seasoning to taste.

Serve immediately or cover and keep warm for up to 10 minutes, whisking occasionally to keep from separating.

Clarified Butter

Makes about 1 1/2 cups

1/2 pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into pieces

Place the butter in a heavy saucepan and melt slowly over low heat. Remove the pan from the heat and let stand for 5 minutes. Skim the foam from the top, and slowly pour into a clean container, discarding the milky solids in the bottom of the pan.

The clarified butter will keep refrigerated in an airtight container for up to one month.

David Spitzer is the executive chef of the Fiesta Resort & Spa Saipan. E-mail him at david_spitzer@fiestasaipan.com.